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23 Jan

They fast-forwarded from the eighteenth century to the twenty-first in one generation. Some 300,000 men live piled up here, in a place whose name in Hindi means 'City of Gold.' In the first camp I stop at - rivven with the smell of sewage and sweat - the men huddle around, eager to tell someone, anyone, what is happening to them.

If you take the Big Bus Tour of Dubai - the red-top passport to a pre-processed experience of every major city on earth - you are fed the propaganda-vision of how this happened. As you pass each new monumental building, he tells you: "The World Trade Centre was built by His Highness..." But this is a lie. Sahinal Monir, a slim 24 year-old from the deltas of Bangladesh. Then you get here and realize it is hell," he says.

The British quit, exhausted, just as oil was being discovered, and the sheikhs who suddenly found themselves in charge faced a remarkable dilemma.

"It was an adult Disneyland, where Sheikh Mohammed is the mouse," she says. You had these amazing big apartments, you had a whole army of your own staff, you pay no taxes at all. We were partying the whole time." Her husband Daniel bought two properties. But for the first time in his life, he was beginning to mismanage their finances.

Israel used to boast it made the desert bloom; Sheikh Maktoum decided to make the desert boom. Every evening, the hundreds of thousands of young men who build Dubai are bussed from their shining sites to a vast concrete wasteland an hour out of town, where they are quarantined away.

He resolved to build a city that would be a center of tourism and financial services, hoovering up cash and talent from across the globe. Until a few years ago they were delivered back and forth on cattle trucks, but the expats complained this was unsightly, so now they are shunted on small metal buses that function like microwaves in the desert heat.

I assumed if all these big companies come here, it must be pretty like Canada's or any other liberal democracy's," she says. If you get into debt and you can't pay, you go to prison. I have to last nine months until he's out, somehow." Looking away, almost paralyzed with embarrassment, she asks if I could buy her a meal. All over the city, there are maxed-out expats sleeping secretly in the sand-dunes or the airport or in their cars. They lure you in telling you it's one thing - a modern kind of place - but beneath the surface it's a medieval dictatorship." II Tumbleweed Thirty years ago, almost all of contemporary Dubai was desert, inhabited only by cacti and tumbleweed and scorpions.

"When we realized that, I sat Daniel down and told him: listen, we need to get out of here. "The thing you have to understand about Dubai is - nothing is what it seems," Karen says at last. But downtown there are traces of the town that once was, buried amidst the metal and glass.